Siberia

The Kolyma Highway, Road of Bones, Magadan and Yakutsk. Road condition in September 2011

Yesterday I said bye to the Scottish travellers, who are making the MAD Expedition from Magadan (Pacific Ocean) to Scotland (Atlantic Ocean) on their own Landrover Defenders. They drove the Kolyma Highway through Ust Nera on September 13-18, 2011.

They are a group of friends from the Scottish city of Glasgow. Stuart, Richard, Gaven, Graham. They do long-distance driving travels regularly. Last time they made it from London to Kazahstan. This time they are here in Siberia on the way home.

Their mission is not just to have fun on the road, but also fundraising for charity. Check the list of charity funds they are supporting. Good friends with good intentions!

Ilya Kovyakin, the host of AskMagadan.com, helped them with cutsom clearance at the sea port in Magadan, Russia. Check out his website later to learn more about the specifics of custom paperworks.

The Scottmen’s travel delayed for more than a month. Initially they planned to start their road trip in the late July 2011, but their shipping company made a mistake in papers, so the cargo with the off-road vehicles stuck in Seoul on the way to Vladivostok and Magadan. It wasn’t the Russian custom service, that postponed their trip.

These four Scottish travellers prepared themselve to ride in the conditions of hot summer weather. In July they asked me, what the current weather was. I said, “+36C and +42C.” They were shocked to hear such news.

After a month, in the early September, the situation was totally different. The temp in Magadan and Yaktusk was already +10C, all trees turned in yellow colors. Moreover, it’s more colder on the road, especially in mountain area. When arrived in Yakutsk, guys said they were camping at -25C… at night.

Ok, no more words about the road conditions and weather reports. Let’s watch travel pictures taken by Scotsmen on the way from Magadan to Yakutsk.

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From London to Magadan Adventure. Through the Road of Bones, Yakutia - Magadan.

What does biking on the Road of Bones in the late September look like? The answer is in the following video and pictures.

Enjoy adventure! Read more…

The Lena River in Yakutia, Russia

The Lena River in Yakutia, Russia

Questions from a guide book writer regarding the construction of the AyAM railway to Yakutsk and a bridge across the Lena River:

In your opinion, when do you think the AyAM train to Yakutsk will be ready? My best guess is not before the Sochi Olympics in 2014.

When the AyAM is complete, it will just go to Nizhny Bestyakh, right?

Somebody told me there will also be a train station in Yakutsk. Why do they need a train station in Yakutsk? Is there another train line being built on the west side of the Lena River, or will there be a bridge across the Lena somewhere?

And here is my reply: Read more…

The Lena River in November. Near Yakutsk, Yakutia, Russia. Photo by Alexander Li

The Lena River in November. Near Yakutsk, Yakutia, Russia. Photo by Alexander Li, Yakutsk Vecherny Newspaper, Vecherka.Ykt.ru

Often asked, if it is possible to drive roads (ice roads) and crossing rivers in Yakutia in a particular month. Yes, such questions arrive mostly from independent vehicle drivers.

So decided to give description of the conditions of roads, ice roads and river crossings month by month.

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The flag of Yakutia in a bookstore in the 2nd House of the Republic of Sakha-Yakutia

The flag of Yakutia in a bookstore in the 2nd House of the Republic of Sakha-Yakutia

Yesterday, Doug Wothke sent me a text with a quick question, “Where to buy the flag of Yakutia?” Gosh, it appeared to be a hard question.

I don’t know why, but Yakutia flags are something that tend to be ordered specially at local advertising & publishing houses. It is something used mostly and ordered in a bulk by governmental and municipal organizations, NGOs, various parties or companies.

So, the flag of Yakutia must be ordered. I mean, if you wish a flag, you need to contact a company that produces flags, and place the order.

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An American chopper Doug Wathke and an Austrian BMW rider Hansjorg.

Yesterday I received an sms from Doug Wothke, who said he arrived in Yakutsk… on a Harley & Davidson motorcycle. It was late night. Right after midnight. He wrote he was looking for hotels to stay. For some reasons, all of them were full.

Hotels were full, as the republic’s big events are coming these weeks, including international economical forum dedicated to infrustructure development in the Republic of Sakha (Yakutia). They didn’t know that, and, frankly saying, that was not the point to mention even. Finally, they found so-called mini hotel (a sort of a guest house).

Today I have met him and he was not alone. There was an Austrian biker named Hansjorg on a BMW and one Russian Max on a KTM from Tynda, who said he catched up his group of Moscovite bikers going also to Magadan… And, yes, there was an Moscow-based American BMW motorcyclist Tom Reiter, a friend of Walter Colebatch’s. As far as you know, Walter is the UK motorbiker, who had explored Siberian roads (www.SibirskyExtreme.com) for others.

So… today, instead of two expected bikers, Doug and Tom, I saw 9 motorcyclists, they are 2 Americans, 1 Austrian, 6 Russians. They were changing tires and preparing their bikes for a long ride to Magadan.

See more photographs of today’s meeting. Read more…

Many tyres are a must for the Road of Bones, Kolyma Highway. Photo of the bike from the Siberia Off Czech expedition.

As it is hard not to make your rear tyres flat...

As it is hard not to make your rear tyres flat...

Let’s repeat the truth about the Road of Bones, known officially as the Kolyma Highway that connects Yakutsk and Magadan. Siberia, including Yakutia, doesn’t have highways as perfect as European amd Asia-advanced ones. It’s Siberia!

Previously, I wrote that it’s impossible to buy spare parts for your motorbikes in Yakutsk. No so many motorcyclists in the city. As a result, no high demand for motorcycle shops at all.

Yesterday, I met really nice British bikers Ed and Dan from the brighton2expeditions. They made the long way from London to Yakutsk via Central Asian countries and Mongolia.

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An Australian hitchhiker Casey Handmer (on the left) with Vadim, a biker of Anadyr.

An Australian hitchhiker Casey Handmer (on the left) with Vadim, a biker of Anadyr.

A year ago, July 28, in Yakutsk I met Casey Handmer, who said he was on the way to Magadan. Asked, how he was going to make it. Hitchhiking was his answer.

He was not the first one, who travelled the Kolyma Highway (Road of Bones) by that mean. So, I didn’t worry much, but I should actually.

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Which travel insurance is valid for Yakutia, Russia? This is a good question! You cannot be sure in your health, but you can be sure in your pro-activity.

Let’s start from the fact that Yakutia is a part of Russia. So when you think about insurance valid in Yakutia, you need to apply this issue in relation with the whole country. If your insurance works out in Russia, it should do in Russia’s Republic of Sakha (Yakutia). It must be so at least, but…

Morelikely, when foreingers will be asked to pay for medical service and treatment and consults in a Russian hospital and they will refer to their available foreign insurance policies, they might hear the reply, “We do not recognize your paper! You should have an insurance from a Russian company. So, you need to pay yourself.” Actually, if doctors say that, it means they do not know, what to do with your paper.

Here are my quick tips about travel insurance for Russia:

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Remains of one of gulags on the way to Topolinoe in Tomponsky region, Republic of Sakha, Yakutia, Russia. Photo by Ajar Varlamov.

“Do you have any coordinates of gulags in Yakutia?” a question asked very, very often. No, I don’t have GPS coordinates, but I know there are some Stalin’s labour camps north off the Kolyma Higway on the way to Topolinoe (see the settlement on the map). If to be more precise, closer to the village.

Here are a few tips how to find camps. Read more…